


The Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ1(v2)ES
& FZ5
Hello,
I owned an FZ1 for almost 3 years, and I must confess
I was a little bit sad when I sold it. I have done lots of pictures
with it, always being amazed of what this camera allowed me to do.
I upgraded it into an FZ2, having at least the PSA options,
plus some improvements (white balance fine tuning, less jpeg compression,
etc).
But, as any first of a series, the FZ1 had also
weaknesses: chromatic noise at 400 iso in low light, autofocus
working sometimes too slow for the pictures I wanted to do. So,
when I saw sales on the FZ5 because of the arrival of the FZ7,
I decided to buy one. And the story goes on ... until I sold it to
go back to the basics: the Canon PowerShot G7 (see the Canon G7 page).
The FZ5 is a great camera regarding to its price, more reactive than
the FZ1 (AF assist lamp, 9 or 3 or 1 zone AF, High speed AF). Chromatic
noise at 200 and 400 iso in low light is still a problem, but the results
are better. Results at 80 and 100 iso are great (better than those of the
FZ7, which has the same noise level at all iso settings).
Pictures are less saturated, but with all the possible tonality settings
(by using the white balance and the picture rendering), it's OK. It's a
pity that the "Focus" lock button is still positioned at a bad place, as
I'm almost always focusing with it.
If you are a lucky FZ1 / FZ2 owner, you will
find much more informations about the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ1/FZ2
in the great site of Alex Oren,
http://fz1.alexoren.com/
.The FAQ of Alex is also very interesting
for the FZ3, FZ4, FZ5 and FZ7 users, because of all the informations
about the lens adapters, accessories, filters, DOF, etc. Have a
look at it! After a few posts between Alex and I, I decided to put
online the Excel file I made, with a memo of the DOF for the FZ1.
Of course, you will now find another version for the FZ5!
Please do a right click on the link below and
choose "save target as" to download the DOF Excel file:
Depth of Field for the Panasonic
DMC-FZ1
Depth of Field for the Panasonic
DMC-FZ5
now
with wide and tele converters values + "My converters" page
If as me you do not want to check the user book each
time you need an info, I have made an Excel sheet with a picture
of the possibilities according to each mode: "What's the iso rate when
I 'm using the night scenery mode ?", "May I do an exposure fine tuning
when the manual mode is selected?". To keep it compact, I use only
the icons of the menu. If any question, you may always send me an e-mail.
Please do a right click on the link below and choose
"save target as" to download the MEMO Excel file:
Memo for the Panasonic
DMC-FZ5
My material
Panasonic DMC-FZ5BK camera.
SD cards 66x (Sandisk & Dane -elec).
About card speed: more than 66x is not useful with the
FZ5 (even with High burst mode on, the 9 to 10 mb/sec of the 66x is enough
to record at glance what's in the cache, that's to say +/- 4 pictures of
2mb).
133x cards are only interesting if you have an USB 2.0 high speed
card reader on your PC, for the data transfer.
Cokin UV Cokinlight 55mm filter to protect the lens.
"In the past" , UV filters were used
to protect the film (chemical support) from the UV. A digital sensor is
not sensible to the UV, so these filters are only neutral protection for
the lenses now.
Cokin Circular Polarizer 55mm.
This is useful to densify the sky, to eliminate the reflects
on metallic surfaces, water, glasses, etc. The exposure correction is about
-2IL
Kodak Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar wide converter x
0.7 55mm. The wide angle becomes a 25mm eq.
Olympus TCON17 tele converter x 1.7 55mm.
The tele position becomes a 734mm eq.
Olympus MCON40 macro converter 55mm.
You can focus on a subject placed at 40cm from the lens at full (12x)
tele
position (instead of 1 meter). It allows you to do macro photography
using any mode of the FZ5 (Aperture priority is often used to shoot with
the right DOF in this case).
I attach the converters on the Cokinlight filter (better
attached than directly on the filter holder).
Some people sand off the front of the filter holder, in order
to let the threads of it be near by the edge. This enables filters and accessories
with less threads to be mounted on the FZ5 (like B+W filters). This allows
also the rear lens of the converters to come closer to the front lens of
the FZ5, avoiding vignetting (dark corners) with wide converters. The problem
is that the filter holder of the FZ5 is in plastic, and so the threads. With
the FZ1, some reimplacement metal built holders were available, but not
for the FZ5 (because it is fixed with a locking system, and not screwed as
previously on the FZ1), except some "click" aluminium holder first developed
for the FZ3 (follow the Butabara-Tec.com link below). So, to avoid damaging
the threads, I let the Cokin always mounted. Cokin filters have many threads,
and it is not necessary to sand off the front of the holder with them. I know
that in this configuration I have vignetting with the wide converter at
A f/2.8, but it disappears from aperture f/4.0.
There is a Japanese factory that makes aluminium alloy filter holder:
have a look at its website, as the holder for the FZ3 will fit on the
FZ5 too, http://butabara-tec.com/Lineup.htm#fz3
and http://butabara-tec.com/
36mm
25mm with x 0.7 wide converter
25 mm with wide converter 0.7
Zooming with a wide converter creates "mist"
effect
(exif)
(exif)
Macro pic
My tip for indoor shooting
WB on cloudy
Fine WB on blue +5
Iso at 100 or 80
No flash / sometimes slow synchro flash
Sometimes with Warm effect on
Aperture priority mode with A =4.0
Focus on button
I often put the picture type on natural instead of standard
when shooting indoor.
First focus on subject
Secondly half press the shutter to lock light metering
as wished
Frame and shoot
Set the light assist OFF when using the wide converter.
Other links:
http://panasonic.co.jp/pavc/global/lumix/
http://www.letsgodigital.be/en/camera/products/Panasonic.html
http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/panasonic/dmc_fz1-review/index.shtml
http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/panasonic/dmc_fz5-review/index.shtml
http://www.cokin.fr/index.html
http://pie.midco.net/treasuredude/fz3faq.html
http://bloodgate.com/photo/panasonic_fz2_vs_fz5.html
Forums:
http://www.dcresource.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=26
http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/view_forum.php?id=23
http://www.flickr.com/
and search for the "FZ5 group", or "FZ group", or "FZ1 FZ2
FZ3 FZ4 FZ5 FZ7 group"
The pictures hereby are compressed a lot for weight
reason.
My daughter by FZ1
My daughter by FZ5
FZ5
FZ5
Auto WB, Standard, Division metering, Effect OFF
Cloudy WB,
Natural, CWA metering, WARM effect
Playing with light metering: version A
(exif )
Playing with light metering: version B
(exif )
Working on aperture + focal distance to play with depth of
field
(exif )
Using the "cool" blue built in filter
Using the "warm" orange built in filter
Noise (Remind you that all pictures of this
site are compressed for weight reason)
Outdoor sunny iso 80
detail
(exif)
At 80 and 100 iso, the definition is very good (considering
the sensor is a very small one).
Outdoor low light iso 200
detail
(exif)
Outdoor low light iso 400
detail
(exif)
You may have better results by selecting "Natural" as picture
setting, but going over 200iso is not advised if you want to
avoid chromatic noise. Using the "Vivid" picture setting will generate
even more chromatic noise at any iso setting, and for
sure at iso 200 and 400 in low light conditions. Please note also that
how longer the exposition, how heavy will be the internal noise processing.
As this is typical the case of low light conditions, you will have to experiment.
Sometimes Scene modes may have great results in this case (like Party, Night
Portrait, etc).
Indoor: with WB on incandescent light and picture type on natural,
200iso results are OK
even with quite a long time exposure
(exif)
Black and White: when noise looses its "chromatic" signification
Having more or less "texture" may be very interesting in
a picture. The problem of the chromatic noise is that
one has points coloured in a complete different way they should be.
This aspect of noise disappear when you work
in BW or in sepia. Vivid at 400 iso may be nice. I slightly underexpose
(-2/3 IL) to densify the picture (I do prefer a black and white result
than a "dark and light grey" result).
Natural 80 iso, - 2/3 IL (compressed)
(exif)
Uncompressed details (door, jar, watch)
Natural 400 iso, - 2/3 IL (compressed)
(exif)
Uncompressed details
Vivid 80 iso, - 2/3 IL (compressed)
(exif)
Uncompressed details
Vivid 400 iso, - 2/3 IL (compressed)
(exif)
Uncompressed details
FZ1